E-mail to Bradley Technologies

[devo]

dcw1
I am not attacking you at all sir. I am praying for you. My prayers for you might be for you to succeed in your venture, but that is between myself and the big guy upstairs.

[dcw1]

TedEbear:  I always wondered about the round thing in the back of the smoker.  Thx.

Renoman and TedEbear:  What the heck is a 25A SSR?

750 watts/120 volts =  6.25 amps (main upgraded element)

125 watts/120 volts = 1.04 amps (puck heater)

So that is about 7.29 amps for the upgraded main and puck heaters.

But how much juice (for lack of a better term) do you think the puck feeder motor and the digital lights would use?  I can't imagine that the puck feeder motor and the digital display would account for an additional 2.71 amps and push this over the 10 amp fuse level.  But I really don't know.

Wildcat, I only suggested others try the "experiment" because they were already not using their digital controls.  So, if their digital controls go south with the experiment, why would they care.  They already decided they were useless (subject to burn up or not tight enough temp control) and got a PID).  The suggestions to me of "you try it and see what happens" were really helpful.  Thank you all for the same.  But to state the obvious, I want to keep and use my digital controls.  If the experiment goes south, then I lose a piece of equipment I want to keep and that I value.  Also, when Renoman pointed out the puck motor and lights are relevant, I then see no reason for someone to experiment with their digital controls if they are still using the puck advance motor.  Ergo my shift in topic to figuring out what the puck motor and lights use in terms of electricity.

Please stay on topic and leave my personality out of this thread.

We are on the cusp of a great discovery here--- the truth will be told.  One day we will all say, "One does not need a PID when upgrading a digital model smoker to keep the unit from failing.  But a PID is necessary to smoke properly with tight temperature control."

For those truly interested in this issue, stay focused.  Ignore the comments about my personality. Although probably true, they are off topic and irrelevant to the topic at hand.

[renoman]

TedEbear:  I always wondered about the round thing in the back of the smoker.  Thx.

Renoman and TedEbear:  What the heck is a 25A SSR?

750 watts/120 volts =  6.25 amps (main upgraded element)

125 watts/120 volts = 1.04 amps (puck heater)

So that is about 7.29 amps for the upgraded main and puck heaters.

But how much juice (for lack of a better term) do you think the puck feeder motor and the digital lights would use?  I can't imagine that the puck feeder motor and the digital display would account for an additional 2.71 amps and push this over the 10 amp fuse level.  But I really don't know.

I will have these answers for you later this morning. Doing some testing in my shop. SSR = solid state relay

[hutcho]

Dcw do you have an amp meter? You could crank your temp as high as it will go turn on the sg and cycle the puck advance while monitoring with an amprobe to get an idea what those parts pull amp wise and give you an idea what kind of current it is using in a normal smoke.  I wont be home today but I can check it out tommorow if I get my generator put back together (PID project in the works).

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note 2

[rexster]

From Smoking Meat Forum post of dcw1 that a lot of us are members of as well as Bradley forums:

There is nothing "dead" about this horse. If so, what's the answer to: can you install a 750-watt element in a digital smoker and still use the digital controls without using a PID? Why or why not.

As stated in the other threads, the idea a digital smoker "is only designed for 500-watts" is a useless answer and more than likely just plain wrong. People smarter than me have calculated the amps of a higher wattage element and because the digital smoker has a 10-amp fuse, It should be ok. But, as my last post said, one needs to also make sure all components are calculated.

Honestly, that other thread shows there are a bunch of loudmouth know-it-alls who will swear you need a PID but can't tell you why. They just don't want to admit they bought a PID needlessly. Does a PID help with temperature control? Sure it does. Is it actually NEEDED because your original digital controls will burn up? Highly doubtful. But it is easy to say, "those controls are designed for 500 watts and if you use a lager element, you'll burn your house down."

If you don't like the topic, stop reading.

[renoman]

Here are the readings of the Bradley digital taken with my Kill A Watt meter. Sorry about the sideways pics but Photobucket is a pain sometimes.

Parasitic draw with everything turned off and The Bradley plugged in.   0.03amps


Auber PID single probe turned on by itself not hooked up to the Bradley   0.01 amps


Smoke generator only   1.05 amps


Smoke generator with puck advancing   1.08 amps


Oven only   3.98 amps


Smoke generator and oven on  4.92 amps


......so with an additional 500 watt element you would be drawing almost exactly 9 AMPS.

[dcw1]

Settled!  Thanks for all the great advice and not so great comments about my personality. :)

This was a very technical question and those much smarter than me have provided a factual answer.   Bravo.  Took a while with all the clutter about my personality but an answer was found.

Some of you will surely be smoking some crow today.  Me, I have some ribs on right now.  :)

[Wildcat]

I am glad you finally got the answer you were looking for. I am sorry that you must endure people that are put off by your personality. I will pray that you find a way of improving your personality. It really is easy when you are considerate of others.

[old sarge]

Deep breath time.  Happy smoking all.

[TedEbear]

Renoman and TedEbear:  What the heck is a 25A SSR?

This:



The high amp current for the heating elements goes through this instead of the PID controller or the stock Bradley electronics.  The PID just toggles the SSR on and off to maintain the temp setpoint.  That's not necessarily how everyone else has theirs wired, just the way it is on mine.

[devo]

Well now there you go, I guess my prayers for you have been answered. Now go out there and get yourself that extra element and show us all just how that sucker works. I am guessing you would be doing more testing on this project of yours and posting the results? Knowing that you only have a 1% doorway before it blows the fuse has me wondering if thats enough to keep you smoking.

[renoman]

Well now there you go, I guess my prayers for you have been answered. Now go out there and get yourself that extra element and show us all just how that sucker works. I am guessing you would be doing more testing on this project of yours and posting the results? Knowing that you only have a 1% doorway before it blows the fuse has me wondering if thats enough to keep you smoking.

It's actually a 10% doorway on 1000 watts. That's why I think 750 watts would work just fine.

[devo]

Well like I said go out and buy that element and put your new found knowledge to good use. Test it and prove it. Testing is the only way you can be sure it will do what you want. I thought it was brought up that the standard is  80% doorway to be safe?

[dcw1]

To everyone reading this thread, I think you must take what I post with a grain of salt.  Yes, I am to the point and I can be abrasive and sarcastic.  But, the banter and occasional good-natured insult make for interesting reading.

So, I will see about getting the new element in.  My brother-in-law will likely assist as he has made many modifications to his unit.  So it may be a while.  Maybe someone will do it as well and post results.

Now, I have to think about my next thread and start another firestorm. I've heard those that smoke beef have lower IQs.  Thoughts?  ;D

[renoman]

Don't forget I am looking for a 750 watt element.