Auto Tune

[celica454]

I have a one year old Bradley 4 rack digital smoker. I'm adding a second heat element and keep reading about performing an Auto Tune on the PID. Do I have to do this on my digital timer and how do you do it?

[KyNola]

There is no auto tune on a Bradley, digital or otherwise.  The auto tune is a function of a PID, an accessory that some people use to tighten the temp swings.  In another post where you essentially asked the same question you mentioned you were adding a second element to help raise your oven temperature.  A PID will not increase your heating capabilities.  It will only assist in holding the temp on point once the targeted temp has been achieved.

Also in another post where you were asking about the auto tune you mentioned that your Bradley would only reach 200* even if you set the temp at 280*.  That would be of a much bigger concern to me. A PID won't correct that problem.

[celica454]

thanks for the info. Glad to hear I don't have to do anything else. Got the parts yesterday and installing the second element tonight. Got some ribs to marinate tonight and test tomorrow night. It's cold here now (-8 C).

[tskeeter]

Celica, it sounds like you're going to do a dual element modification.  I've got a couple of suggestions.

The best tool I have found to make a notch in the ceramic cap of the holder for the original heating element is a rod saw blade for a hacksaw.  It's a round, grit covered rod with a loop at either end, for mounting in a hacksaw frame.  I got mine at Home Depot for about $5.  (I tried files and a Dremel.  Can be done, but I found it pretty slow going.)

Making holes for a second heating element in the light weight reflector without damaging the reflector is difficult.  I tried drill bits.  Stepping up in size as I went.  The largest bit caught and twisted up the reflector.  I tried hole punches.  More bent up reflector, complete with broken spot welds.  Finally I tried a Unibit step drill.  (Another Home Depot purchase.)  Drilled a small pilot hole, then switched to the step drill.  Slicker than snot on the proverbial door knob.  The step drill is kind of expensive, but it works really well for this project.  I bet you'll find other uses for it once you have one.

[celica454]

I installed the second element. Wasn't too bad. Had no problems drilling the holes. Both elements came on right away and everything seemed OK till about 2 hours into a rib smoke. The elements turned themselves off and would not come back on. I had to finish the ribs in the oven. This is how my problem started. I replaced the element with a brand new one. Same thing. I added the second element and after a few hours it did it again. Is there a problem with my digital timer box or the temp sensor?

[tskeeter]

Celica, assuming you've already checked circuit breakers, it sounds like your smoker got hot enough to trip one of the two temp limiters.

The first temp limiter is the temp sensor on the back wall of your smoker.  It looks like a round button about the size of a dime.  If this shut down your smoker, it should reset after your smoker has cooled down.  If you can't get your smoker to start to heat up, try holding an ice cube against the temp sensor to get it to reset.  If it's still a no-go, move to temp limiter #2.

The second temp limiter is the fusible link that is part of the red power supply wire inside the back cover of your smoker.  A small metal clip holds the fusible link against the back wall of your smoker.  You'll have to replace the  link.  I think they are less than $5 each from Yard and Pool.  Since they aren't expensive, I got a couple of spares and maximized the value of my investment in shipping and handling charges.

Once your smoker is up and running, you'll want to be checking out why your smoker got so hot.  You might need to install a baffle to keep some of the heat away from the temp limiters, so you don't got through this on a regular basis.  In my case, I believe that the smoker got too hot because a pork shoulder bulged as it warmed up and came in contact with the wall mounted temperature probe that controls my PID.  Since the sensor was reading the cool temperature of the meat, not the warmer temperature of the air in the smoker, the PID kept trying to heat up the smoker more.  Until the fusible link activated and cut off the power to the heating element. 

[pensrock]

What temp were you trying to do the ribs? Sounds like it either got too hot or blew a fuse. Just because you now can get hotter does not mean you would want to. The main reason for the second element is to increase recovery time when the door gets opened or the meat it first put in. Not to smoke/cook hotter than the unit was designed for.

[Habanero Smoker]

Sometimes once the temp sensor trips, it will not reset even after using ice to reset it.

There is no way to visibly check if the fusible link blew, but if that blew you are looking at an electrical problem. You had an electrical overload. If you have a multi meter you can test for continuity. If it blew, recheck your wiring, and make sure nothing is wired incorrectly or shorting out.

[rexster]

A good posting regarding whether you need a PID controller or not on dual element installs...............What happened is what most of us have been saying all along. You need a PID to control 1000w draws. Now if someone will install a 900w finned element without a PID all will be known