2nd Element, Fan and Burner Mod

[Habanero Smoker]

I'll third that. :)

[CentDoss89]

I do completely agree that there's no one right way to do it. Because to one person something may be easier than to others or just the fact of the components needed may be in short supply for someone.

I myself just like the opinions and advice from others trials because it just adds to my wealth of knowledge for what worked and what didn't. Kind of my way of trial and error through others as they say.

I'm hopefully going to be purchasing wire, connectors, and components needed to complete my modifications soon!!

[CentDoss89]

Ok so after failing to find an actual appliance repair shop that carried the wire and connectors I need and nothing being concise enough on the old interweb....what in the heck are specs for the wire to be used?

I'm finding stuff like "high temper lead wire" or "silicone treated heat resistant" I just don't wanna burn my house down!

[Salmonsmoker]

I'm sure that if you went to an appliance recycle business, they'd have plenty of high temp. wire from scrapped ranges and would probably give you a couple of feet.

[Orion]

Salmon smoker is right on the money. You don't have to make this more complicated than it is. I went to a appliance repair shop and asked politely if they could help me with some materials for my project. They pointed me at a oven/range that was in amazing condition and said "help yourself".

I got a high temp light assy, a convection fan and motor, all the high temp wiring I could ever need, some high temp insulation batting and a handy rack for $25.

The wiring you are after has a fibrous/fabric type insulation sheath and is found under the stove top in close proximity to the elements. The wiring behind the range assy and in the control panel has a plastic type insulation and is NOT what you want to use. You will probably find that the high temp stuff even has the correct ring terminal on one end so it's best to undo it properly rather than just go in with side cutters and cut it out. Either way will work though. If the shops wont help you there must be an appliance recycling yard or dump you could visit.

All you need to find is an old range. Look in the classifieds for a free one if you have to. All you need is 12" of wire.

[ghosttown]

I had the same issue no one wanted to server me so I was stuck in buying it online from amazon

Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

[Orion]

Burner Mod Results;

HUGE improvement in puck burning since the chute cut out and lowering modification!

These are the puck results prior to mod. Notice the extreme pre ignition on the two pucks on the right and the incomplete combustion on the left hand puck. Left hand was the puck that straddled the burner and chute and right hand pucks are examples on the ones that trailed the burning puck.

[Orion]

Bottom view of combustion after mod...



Top view of combustion after mod...



Minimal pre-ignition of trailing puck after mod...

[ghosttown]

Wow huge improvement, so you needed up lowering the burner plate and cutting the chute?

Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

[Orion]

Burner and chute condition after 7 hours smoke time...



This mod is easily done, costs next to nothing and will greatly improve burner performance and reduce maintenance in terms of cleaning.

[Orion]

Wow huge improvement, so you needed up lowering the burner plate and cutting the chute?

Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

Yes, cut the chute and lowered the burner 3/16ths. It is all detailed in this thread. I am definitely getting a full burn now which saves money and time. Next I will cut the chute back a little more and shift the burner back towards the chute.   

[ghosttown]

If you do that don't you have to adjust the sensor or the belt Inside as its preconfigured to push the  puck to a certain length.

Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

[Orion]

Short answer...no.

The puck advance mechanism pushes the puck a certain distance. As received from factory, the pucks would not advance entirely past the chute and completely onto the burner.

Remedy: cut crescent shape out of chute so that without adjusting travel the puck drops off the chute.

Puck is now clear of chute however it is still not sitting 100% on the burner. It is sitting flat and it is clear of the chute however it's lower surface is straddling the burner by about 1/4" on the trailing edge.

Remedy:  Notch burner rail and elongate(or relocate) burner mount holes to enable shifting the burner plate towards the chute. Now when the puck travels its factory set distance it drops clear of the chute and is sitting 100% on the burner plate. I'm willing to suggest that once this is done the upper surface of a puck will be burnt  in its entirety.

Lowering the burner plate by 3/16th's reduces the pre-ignition.

[ghosttown]

Awesome will pm of you don't mind after Xmas to do this mod in case I need help. Just doing some serious smoking this xmass and don't want to mess anything up. Did you end up getting the dual PID I know you were debating?

Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

[Orion]

I have not purchased a PID yet. I really can't justify spending that kind of money especially with the exchange rate at about $1.40. I was able to make Mr. Walleyes amazing kielbasa by limiting the smoker temperatures to less than 170 F and finishing them in a water bath with which I used a instant reading temp probe. It worked well and I will continue on that road until the Auber cost is more practical.