2nd Element, Fan and Burner Mod

[Orion]

Ok, one more question and I promise to just get on with it and do it ;)

If you're not adding the inline fuse and temp sensor is there any advantage to wiring it in parallel rather than hooking the new element up to the old one as TedEBear did?

It seems to me that this route would mean the new element is protected by the existing in-line first, the same as the old one. I'd assume that's not a good as a dedicated fuse for each but better than nothing... I'm useless at electrics though so happy to be corrected. Looks a lot simpler to do too of course :D

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Hello wurzel,

I'm no electrical wizard either. I wired my second 500 watt element completely independent of the original one because I had a surplus of appropriate high temp wire and I felt that the factory wiring used to power the original element might not be sufficient to carry the current for the additional element.

For this reason I ran a wire from each end of the second element all the way back through rear panel and connected them directly to the power source where the original element wires get their power. If the wiring for the first element ever fails the second element will still work and vise versa.

As far as the thermal fuse; if you wire the unit like I did, each element should have one as each element has power available in an overheat situation. However, if you simply jump the second element off the terminals on the first element an overheat situation should interrupt power to both elements in an over heat situation.

Personally, I never leave my smoker unattended for more than an hour and even then I'm not far away. I know they are designed to be fully automatic and safe but I simply won't take the chance as people have had fires for various reasons including failures to load the smoker correctly or clean it properly.

Wire it either way and simply keep a reasonable eye on it is my advise.   

[wurzel]

Good point orion, I hadn't thought about one element working if the other goes. Definitely worth the extra hassle to not lose a whole smoker full of meat if the worst does happen. Thanks for that.

I couldn't figure out if it was OK to connect both wires into a single spade connector, that pic is blurry in both Mr. Walleye's and test rocket's instructions. After a while I found this though http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/maplin-spade-terminal-piggy-back-connecters-red-l26ay

Seems like it'll do the job nicely without making me check it every 10 minutes in case my dodgy wiring has burnt my garage down :D

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[Habanero Smoker]

Good point orion, I hadn't thought about one element working if the other goes. Definitely worth the extra hassle to not lose a whole smoker full of meat if the worst does happen. Thanks for that.

I couldn't figure out if it was OK to connect both wires into a single spade connector, that pic is blurry in both Mr. Walleye's and test rocket's instructions. After a while I found this though http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/maplin-spade-terminal-piggy-back-connecters-red-l26ay

Seems like it'll do the job nicely without making me check it every 10 minutes in case my dodgy wiring has burnt my garage down :D

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Connecting the hot wire from the second element to the spade that contains the hot wire at the back of the cabinet, and the neutral wire from the second element to the spade that contains the neutral wire at the back of the cabinet; is how Mr. Walleye connected the wiring.

[TedEbear]

Good point orion, I hadn't thought about one element working if the other goes. Definitely worth the extra hassle to not lose a whole smoker full of meat if the worst does happen. Thanks for that.

If you wire them in parallel with a short 3-4" loop of wire at each end of the two elements, the way I did several years ago, it will not matter if one element goes out.

[Orion]

Hello wurzel,

I'm no electrical wizard either. I wired my second 500 watt element completely independent of the original one because I had a surplus of appropriate high temp wire and I felt that the factory wiring used to power the original element might not be sufficient to carry the current for the additional element.

For this reason I ran a wire from each end of the second element all the way back through rear panel and connected them directly to the power source where the original element wires get their power. If the wiring for the first element ever fails the second element will still work and vise versa.

As far as the thermal fuse; if you wire the unit like I did, each element should have one as each element has power available in an overheat situation. However, if you simply jump the second element off the terminals on the first element an overheat situation should interrupt power to both elements in an over heat situation.

Personally, I never leave my smoker unattended for more than an hour and even then I'm not far away. I know they are designed to be fully automatic and safe but I simply won't take the chance as people have had fires for various reasons including failures to load the smoker correctly or clean it properly.

Wire it either way and simply keep a reasonable eye on it is my advise.

Just to clarify my previous post...wiring the second element in parallel to the original and running the wires for the second element from the spade connectors at the rear wall connector ensures the second element still runs in the event the wiring supplying the original element fails.

If the elements are wired in parallel, it doesn't matter if you run the wires all the way from the spade connectors or simply use 3-4" jumpers to connect the second element...either way if an element fails the other will still work.

Let us know how you make out wurzel.

[wurzel]

A little update;

Got the second element in and working. I've done it in parallel to the spade connectors, I already had the piggy back connectors and wanted to use them [emoji14]

Connected it up to the pid to check and I was so pleased with myself when I saw both elements come on, first mod like this I've ever done and it worked thanks to you fellas.

Put it on today to get my brisket and butt in at 6am... Elements working through the pid fine but lots of beeping from the Bradley, E1. Did all the fiddling to no avail, pulled the back off and found I'd disconnected one of the wires on the temp sensor. No problem, solder it back on and hey presto! Still lots of beeping and E1 nonsense... Couldn't figure it out, must have bust it while I was messing around back there. Found paulsnapp's post on the sensor bypass plug... Trip to the electronic store and a bit of soldering later and we're in action.

I lost a day on my cook but that's fine, I can live an extra day with no 'cue.

Thanks a lot for all your help guys, this forum is a godsend.



so pretty

[Habanero Smoker]

The E1 error is caused by the sensor cable. Even though the PID is controlling the heat, you still must have the sensor cable plugged in for the generator to work and move the bisquettes to the heating pad. If the sensor cable is plugged in, make sure it is plugged in securely. If that is not the problem, take the back off and make sure that any of the wiring to the sensor hasn't been accidently disconnected.

[Orion]

Bumping this to the top. There has been a lot of questions about second elements and puck burning and chute issues.

[heli76]

What I read, many added a second heat element together with the existing one to the Bradley digital controller. What's the experience in the meanwhile? Does the controller handle the additional load without problems?
I plan to do the mod on 230V. But I'm not sure, if I should connect the second element to the controller without using a relay.
Regards,Helmut

[ghosttown]

I wouldn't connect the second element to the controller, I don't think it can handle the load. Some added a switch so they can turn on the 2nd element then need to. I went with the 900 watt and a digital PID and never looked back.

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[heli76]

I wouldn't connect the second element to the controller, I don't think it can handle the load. Some added a switch so they can turn on the 2nd element then need to. I went with the 900 watt and a digital PID and never looked back.

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Thanks, I also prefer not to connect both elements directly to the Bradley controller. My plan is to install a relay to handle both elements. These would cut off current from the controller completely.
Which 900 watt element did you use?
There are several threads around but most are old and have bad links to instructions or parts for the mod.

[Salmonsmoker]

heli76, i have a tempco finned element. I don't have the model # readily available, but with a little research you can find the right one. The one I have is the right length to very closely "bolt up" to existing brackets and has a connector on each end. If you were going to re-wire, there's one that has both connections on one end, if you prefer.

[heli76]

heli76, i have a tempco finned element. I don't have the model # readily available, but with a little research you can find the right one. The one I have is the right length to very closely "bolt up" to existing brackets and has a connector on each end. If you were going to re-wire, there's one that has both connections on one end, if you prefer.

I assume, it's this one.

https://m.grainger.com/mobile/product/TEMPCO-Finned-Strip-Heater-2XEF3

Have to find a similar one for 230/240V.

[ghosttown]

This is the one I bought

https://www.acklandsgrainger.com/product/p/WWG2XEF3

[heli76]

What's about the mod with the fan? Is it really  useful? It seems to me that not many installed a fan.