Newbie 750 or 900 Element Help

Started by bradleyincleveland, November 09, 2015, 01:39:19 AM

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bradleyincleveland

Habanero thank you! So I think, I have this down with the exception of the notch. Trying to tell from the pics, is the notch made around the nut of the ceramic holder? If I intend to jump to the second element I would use an eyelet connection correct? Just got my second element in today due to Amazon's fast shipping:)

Orion

The wires for the original element, one for each end of the element, pass through the back wall of the smoker and into the body of the ceramic holders. The wires have to be routed here to connect to the terminals on the element. In order to connect your second element you have to make a hole in the ceramic holder in order to allow the new wire (which will connect the first element to the second one) a place to pass through the ceramic in order to get to the new element.

Once you have the ceramics out of the smoker you will see that each one is comprised of two halves.  It is where the two halves join on the outboard side that you must make a small notch in each half. Then when you re-assemble the two halves. the notches will match up and form a single hole that the wire can be passed through on its way to the second element.

Once you have the ceramics out of the smoker and can see how they are constructed this should all be easily understood and accomplished.
It's going to take a lifetime to smoke all this.

Habanero Smoker

Quote from: bradleyincleveland on November 13, 2015, 06:18:43 PM
Habanero thank you! So I think, I have this down with the exception of the notch. Trying to tell from the pics, is the notch made around the nut of the ceramic holder? If I intend to jump to the second element I would use an eyelet connection correct? Just got my second element in today due to Amazon's fast shipping:)

I forgot you are going to piggyback the elements. In that case I don't believe you have to notch the ceramic fittings.



     I
         don't
                   inhale.
  ::)

bradleyincleveland

Thank you both again! What about disabling the temperature control. The new OB smoker does not have the front slider control. It appears the temperature is controlled from the smoker box. Any clue how I should approach this?

Habanero Smoker

You will not have to disconnect the temperature control. The cabinet will be plugged directly into your Raptor, this will bypass the temperature controller in the generator. The Raptor is rated at 1800 watts.



     I
         don't
                   inhale.
  ::)

bradleyincleveland

Well that is good news. Bad news is the heat shield got away from me when I stepped up to 1/2" bit. Totally spun around and is destroyed. Did not have a clamp so was holding it by hand. Is a dremel easier than the rat tail? On a side note, to jump the wires it appears I will have to bend the eyelit at a 90 degree angle in order to come out the side opening of the ceramic holder. Any comments from someone that has jumped their element?

TedEbear

Quote from: bradleyincleveland on November 14, 2015, 01:40:42 PM
Well that is good news. Bad news is the heat shield got away from me when I stepped up to 1/2" bit. Totally spun around and is destroyed. Did not have a clamp so was holding it by hand. Is a dremel easier than the rat tail? On a side note, to jump the wires it appears I will have to bend the eyelit at a 90 degree angle in order to come out the side opening of the ceramic holder. Any comments from someone that has jumped their element?

I warned the other day that the thin heat shield tends to tear easily when drilling large holes and that it is better to grind than drill.  I drilled mine out to around 3/8" and then used a cone shaped grinding bit to enlarge the holes to the right size.

Yes, bend the connector at a 90 degree angle so everything fits.

Yard and Pool sells replacement heat shields for under $9.



bradleyincleveland

You did warn me, lol. Order placed! Until round two now. Thanks for the connector info.

Habanero Smoker

Quote from: bradleyincleveland on November 14, 2015, 01:40:42 PM
Well that is good news. Bad news is the heat shield got away from me when I stepped up to 1/2" bit. Totally spun around and is destroyed. Did not have a clamp so was holding it by hand. Is a dremel easier than the rat tail? On a side note, to jump the wires it appears I will have to bend the eyelit at a 90 degree angle in order to come out the side opening of the ceramic holder. Any comments from someone that has jumped their element?

When I did my mod, that is how I ruined my heat shielded. That is why the warning is given in the instructions you were linked to.

If you have a Dremel, it is easier than a rattail file. The Dremel is smaller and easier to handle than a drill, but as mentioned by TedeBear, you can purchase grinding bits for your drill. A half round file will also do the job quickly.

Also; you need to clamp it down while drilling; even at the smallest drill size; just to be safe.



     I
         don't
                   inhale.
  ::)

bradleyincleveland

At least I know I'm not the only one! Thanks for the dremel tip, I ended up buying a step bit and clamp, figured I would need it for something else. The connectors I bought from the appliance store are too big. Does anyone know if eyelits from Home Depot would work to jump, or do they have to be special high temp?

TedEbear

Quote from: bradleyincleveland on November 15, 2015, 05:51:45 AMDoes anyone know if eyelits from Home Depot would work to jump, or do they have to be special high temp?

Wire connectors are available in different configurations, depending on both the wire size and the stud that they will attach to.  I'm not sure what Home Depot has available but it does not have to be a special high temp connector.  Just be sure and remove any plastic insulator off the metal or it will melt.

bradleyincleveland

#26
Picked up some new connectors, and ready to make the connections while I wait for my new reflector. The guy at the part store said to place the sleeve of the eyelit over the entire wire (protective covering and all), then crimp down. I would think that I would have to cut the protective sleeve covering prior to crimping down no? How would the connection make contact?

Also after looking at the element and ceramic holders closer, I don't see how you could possibly get the second jump wire out without notching the ceramic holder. Am I looking at this wrong? If I am looking at the element and holder mounted in the cabinet, the left side of tge ceramic holder is flush. I believe I should take the top part of the ceramic holder off and notch the left side of that piece, and the right side of the opposite holder....comments?

Disregard the second paragraph, I did not pay close enough attention to Orion's post. I will be grinding down the ceramic holders to make a whole for the jumper wire. Still not sure if I strip the high temp wire or not?

bradleyincleveland

Quote from: Habanero Smoker on November 14, 2015, 01:31:14 AM
Quote from: bradleyincleveland on November 13, 2015, 06:18:43 PM
Habanero thank you! So I think, I have this down with the exception of the notch. Trying to tell from the pics, is the notch made around the nut of the ceramic holder? If I intend to jump to the second element I would use an eyelet connection correct? Just got my second element in today due to Amazon's fast shipping:)

I forgot you are going to piggyback the elements. In that case I don't believe you have to notch the ceramic fittings.

I don't believe there is anyway around notching the fittings

Orion

Bradleyinc,

Yes, you need to notch the ceramic and I believe you have the correct way to do it in your mind now. It doesn't take much as when the two notches mate together you just need a hole large enough to pass the wire through. Just so we are clear: when the notching is completed the wire will pass out the ends of the ceramic and by the ends I mean the side of the ceramic that faces the sidewalls of the smoker cabinet.

Not quite sure what you are unclear of regarding the wire and terminal ends. You only strip about 3/16ths of the insulation off the wire ends so that the bare wire can be inserted into the terminal and crimped securely. This should place the insulated portion of the wire butting up against the terminal. Although....some terminals are designed to crimp both the bare portion and the insulated portion of the wire but I doubt you have that style. Just examine the crimps on the existing wiring at the original element and copy what you see there.

When sizing your wires and crimping and locating the bend in the terminals assembly things loosely to ensure you get it all laid out correctly. Try to bend the ring terminals at a 90 degree but leave enough room in the bend radius to allow your nuts to be installed and tightened.

Hopefully you didn't tear your hands to shreds when the shield got away from you. I like your persistence and patience! You will get this done and be pleased when you do. 
It's going to take a lifetime to smoke all this.

Habanero Smoker

Orion has provided good advice. Since you are piggy backing the elements, before you notch, you may want to check with TedeBear, as to which side you should place the notch.



     I
         don't
                   inhale.
  ::)