900 watt mod

[rickb54]

Does anyone have a link to a step-by-step of the 900 watt heating element mod? I may be handy with tools, but I don't want to burn the house down, either.

[manfromplaid]

http://forum.bradleysmoker.com/index.php?topic=25031.msg301287#msg301287

[ghosttown]

Does anyone have a link to a step-by-step of the 900 watt heating element mod? I may be handy with tools, but I don't want to burn the house down, either.

I recommend buying the element with the bolts on each side rather two on one side.

Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk

[Aran33]

Hey guys,

Sorry to resurrect an old topic - but I'm considering swapping the original element in my 5-6 year old Bradley with the finned elements I've seen discussed in many topics across the forum.

I'm curious if anyone has an updated or more definitive opinion on continuing to use the slider for temp control going from a 500W to 900W element?  I've seen a lot of recommendations around using a PID or something similar to handle temp for safety reasons, but I'm wondering if the factory high temp shutoff switch/sensor would not still kick in to cut power to the element if it gets above 280 or whatever Bradley has configured it to do? 

My ideal plan would be to swap in the 900W finned element, wiring it directly in place from the old element, and hopefully doing as little re-wiring as possible (none at all, if that's possible!)

Thanks!

[zueth]

You need to use a PID, they are worth every penny.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Aran33]

You need to use a PID, they are worth every penny.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks for the reply zueth.

I totally understand the appeal of a PID, and may well look at getting one in the future, but it strikes me as a convenience as opposed to a functional necessity or safety/reliability upgrade from an electrical standpoint.  My electrical understanding is limited, but from what I can tell, adding a PID would have no effect on whether or not the Bradley's factory wiring can handle a 750W or 900W element swap.  I'm fairly crystal clear that a PID would simply act as an automated on/off switch to maintain a near-exact temperature in the cabinet,  but would not affect or monitor the electrical current flowing from the power source to the heating element.

Can anyone who has swapped the factory element to a single larger-wattage element comment on whether a PID is in any way NECESSARY? I know the dual-element upgrade is a different beast wiring-wise.

Thanks in advance!

[zueth]

I asked some of the same question and nobody had used stock temp on digital Bradley so I opted for PID and I sure am glad I did. The controller on Bradley is really bad and mainting temp control, you don’t notice it until you get a PID.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[zueth]

Here are some pictures of the 900 watt upgrade I did. I used the stock Bradley wiring and use some brackets from hardware store meant for bracing wood. It worked out well and was really easy to do. Just make sure you are careful when drilling holes for screws for brackets and mount as far a way from back wall as possible.

The 900 watt element was purchased from Grainger.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Aran33]

Here are some pictures of the 900 watt upgrade I did. I used the stock Bradley wiring and use some brackets from hardware store meant for bracing wood. It worked out well and was really easy to do. Just make sure you are careful when drilling holes for screws for brackets and mount as far a way from back wall as possible.

The 900 watt element was purchased from Grainger.

Zueth,

What width of element did you purchase? I know the interior dimensions of the Bradley is 15", but it appears the 900W Tempo elements are 12" wide?  I've been reading a bit about the 10A fuse, and thinking of maybe going with a 14" 750W or 10.5" 725W  element just to keep the draw down slightly compared to the 900W... Again my electrical knowledge is pretty minimal.

Also, why do you say to mount it as far off the back as possible?

[zueth]

I got it from Grainger, Item # 2XEF3

https://www.grainger.com/product/2XEF3?cm_mmc=EMT-_-10339122-_--_-OnlineGuest-_-Item&RIID=37274452715&GID=&mid=EMT-_-10339122-_-OrderConfirmation-_-Item&rfe=c2ac4051bb9b357fbd2e449f5ac1bdffd3ffa54b016b29ceb5126a08db6068dd&gcrfe=c2ac4051bb9b357fbd2e449f5ac1bdffd3ffa54b016b29ceb5126a08db6068dd

Yes, they are 12 inch wide, they fit perfectly between the heat deflector.  I said to mount far away as possible from the back wall, due to the additional heat that the heating element provides, so you don't damage the back wall.

[TwistedSanity]

I choose to do the duel 500W mod with a jumper wire from the original element to the second. This mod was extremely easy to do.  although in opened up the back cabinet I do not believe it was necessary.

cost a 1 500w element (I actually replaced both elements as I wanted a spare for a back up)
1 foot of high temp wire.
4 ring connectors (I bought the normal ones with the plastic covering and just pulled the covering off to leave them as bare metal.

Some of the reason I preferred this method over others was;
-easy to install
-cheap
-required no additional holes in the unit
-can be reverted back to original
-tied the fusible safety link to both elements which I felt was safer

Let me know if you want more details on this option.

Happy smoking

[zueth]

Same reasons I chose the 900.

Cheap
Easy to install
No holes in unit



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[TwistedSanity]

Great to Know Zeuth.

I was considering the 900 when I did my mod but I stumbled across the help guide for the additional 500 watt first.

[mybad]

Let me know if you want more details on this option.

Happy smoking

I would very much thank you!

[TwistedSanity]

I will get some pictures together and post in a couple of days