Hey Everybody !!!

[Boxy613]

Thanks for putting together such a great resource. I have been using my Bradley Original for about the last 6 years and I love it. A couple of weeks ago the temperature control slider finally packed it in, along with the inline fuse and the element. Is this the best place to ask this question, or should I post it somewhere else?

"My Inkbird controller is on it's way, is there any reason why I cant strip all of the wires out of the Smoker box, re-wire the element with a heavy duty cord and just plug it into the Inkbird?"

Thanks

Boxy

[Orion]

If your new controller had a 120 volt input, variable output in relation to temperature settings and a temp probe I can't see why not. Having said that , I don't own that model so can't say for sure. Good luck with it.

[Boxy613]

Thanks Orion, it does exactly what you mentioned. Here is the link https://www.ink-bird.com/products-temperature-controller-itc308.html

I just an email that it has been shipped, so hopefully by next weekend I'll be up and running.
Thanks again.

[Habanero Smoker]

Hi Boxy613;

Welcome to the forum.

Are you sure the element and inline fuse is blown? When the temperature controller fails, no current will go to the element or inline fuse. You can remove the wires that go to the controller, and rewire the element directly to the power source. There is not need to get heavier gauge wire, just use the wiring that you removed from the temperature controller. Or you can simply detach the wiring from the circuit board on the temperature controller, and connect them together, thus by passing the circuit board.

[Boxy613]

I definitely had a blown element, a wise pepper once posted about checking the resistance and I had 0... :)
I did try to splice the wires together and I could get power to the on light, but I could never get any heat out of the element. So after fighting with it for over a week, I gave up and ordered the temp control. My only concern is that it has an upper range of 210 F and I still haven't wrapped my head around how that will work with the element and the puck burner. I think if I mount it high enough in the box I should be  able to cheat a few degrees and have it maintain an adequate cooking temperature.