westexasmoker HOW TO GROW A PINEAPPLE IS DONE.

[Oldman]

Greets my Friend,

I have not forgotten to share with you how to grow a pineapple in your area. I'm collecting much information from my organic archives that I believe will be important to you. I'm doing it in a word processor. So I will edit this posting later when I'm done. I got to run and check on a crew and I  have a full morning tomarrow. However, I will post two images of a pineapple with 10-12 pups/ slips just to get ya mouth a-watering.



A couple of months later...


Those pups / slips create a better fruit IMO than a crown.

Now I grow everything in  a closed container. An commercial example of is an Earthbox What the person in NYC did was to grow his pineapple in a container that he had place in a kid's wagon so he could easyly move it around.

Now you can grow a pineapple with as little as 6 hours of sunlight per day. However, if you allow it to get to 28 -32F and it is dead--period.

You can purchase an Earthbox or you can make your own. I have both but I use the Earthbox for herbs. Below is a 8 foot box I made. No matter the size box you build the principle behind it is the same.













This is a drawing of my first type of container.


This is one of my 8 footers with plants.  The smaller container to the right has 6 pinapple plants in it.


Container gardening is a Micro-Society that you have much control over. However, beyond the obvious needs for the "Four food groups" ( fertilizer, water, sunlight, and air) we need to understand the following.

1.)  Problems often occur within a container of soilless media due to their high soluble salts from the use of  chemical fertilizers. This is why many container garndeners change out there mixture. This is not a big problem if you are growing a tomatoe plant in a 5 gallon bucket. Once the plant is dead you can take the mixture in the bucket and add it to your in-ground garden. However, it is a big problem should you be growing a perennial and you don't want to change out that mixture. Yes I have heard folks say..."Well all you have to do is flush out the salts with massive water." The problem with that is you are then messing with the Micor-Society-hopefully-you  have worked at creating in your containers. i.e. the beneficial bateria, worms etc. 

2.) Next containers can become anaerobic--This is to say that what will now grow in your pot will not requiring air or oxygen for life. These types of items are the wrong things have in a container. i.e. pathogens, molds,  not to mention root rot. Now most clay type containers will breath. However, plastic containers do not. Many container have a "water foot" they sit one. (Like a dish under a pot.) When using a plastic container sitting on a water-foot  with no aeration holes you are already starting out on the wrong foot. 

3.) While pH is important to all types of growing in a container it is more critical.  If the pH drops below 5.0 and the aeration is inadequate, beneficial bacteria and fungi diminish, and many pathogens begin to proliferate.
Now in truth, container gardening is easy and simple once we understand these basic 3 rules I have listed above. Plus you can eliminate so many problems with a container. I'm not trying to say that my methodology of container gardening is the only way. However, it works, and it works very well. .

Once I set up a container the hard part is over with. In my mixture I start out with enought organic fertilizers that I don't really  have to worried for the season other than some light side dressing.  I do add Fish and Sea weed emulsion to my water.(one half ounce per gallon of water--all plants) I will foliage spray all plant once per week with Seaweed extract--one ounce per gallon. 

My base soiless mixture: (If you purchase soiless mixture--potting soil--make sure it does not contain chemical fertilizers.)
3 parts Ground pine bark (I  run it through a chipper)
2 parts sphagnum moss
1 part Perlite /Vermiculite
1/2  part builders sand.
1 pint dolomite lime per bushel of soil mix

I do not use any wetting agents. This means you will have to really work at getting this mixture wet. Once it is wet don't let it dry out. Next I add, a good inch of mature compost to the top of my filled containers.

My base Fertilizer:
2 parts blood meal
1 part fish meal
2 parts bonemeal
4 parts rock phosphate
6 parts greensand.
1/2 part kelp meal

Now how much of this base fertilizer you are going to use is based on the size of your container. I mix in a lot. For example in a container that is 42" X 30" X 22" I  add 6 quarts. I mix this fertilizer though out the whole container. Top to bottom--side to side. Remember unlike synthetic fertilizers most organic fertilizers are nonburning. This mixture will not burn your plants. One time I turn around wrong (LOL) and added a second 6 quarts. The plants did just fine in that double mixture.

The real trick is to compost. I make sure my containers always have at least one inch of mature compost at all times. By doing so your soilless mixture one day will be come a health Micro-Society. When that happens just add a few regular earth worms. Do you know that worms are what I call reverse eaters? Unlike us, when they eat they put back more nutrients  into the Society than they took out! You just give them mature compost, a little builder sand and you will have the best living fertilizer factory in town! (When you get to adding a few worms make sure to add a few more ounces of builder sand. They need it to digest.)

A full Micro-Society will give your plants such a boost that folks with say to you...Wow you must have one hecka a green thumb. When someone says that to me I just reply...naw it's my  the Micro-Society at work! You see I'm really a very lazy gardener. I even use a battery powered sprayer....I'm too lazy to use a pump up one!

I'm sure you have seen the P‑N‑K ratings. Understand that the item in and by themselves that make up organic fertilizers have a lower P‑N‑K rating. This does not mean they are not as effective. They are and more.

Below are many formulas. The reason I have supplied you with so many is that in a given area you might not find some of the items.

~First let's take a look at some of the P‑K‑N ratings of just some of these items.~

Blood Meal 12‑1‑1 Provides medium to rapid availability of nutrients, mainly nitrogen (N). Often used in combination with other organic fertilizers for a more complete blend. Also used in composting as starter or accelerator .

Fish Emulsion 5‑2‑2 Medium to rapid availability of nutrients, mainly nitrogen. Good for foliar feeding. Also used in composting as starter or accelerator. Often used with seaweed or kelp for liquid fertilizer.

Liquid Kelp 0.1‑0.1‑1 Medium availability of nutrients, mainly potassium. Has many micro‑nutrients. Plant growth stimulant. Aids in protecting plants against stress. Improves plant health and immunity to diseases. Often used with fish emulsion.

Steamed Bone Meal 1‑11‑0 Slow to medium availability. Primary nutrient is Phosphorus (P). Promotes root growth and seed development. Often used in dry organic fertilizer blends. Used when planting bulbs as a booster.

Composted Cattle Manure 1‑1‑1 Slow to medium availability. Soil conditioner. Also used in composting as starter or accelerator.

Cottonseed Meal 7‑2‑2 Slow to medium availability. Primary nutrient is Nitrogen (N). Often used in organic fertilizer blends. Will acidify soil. Good for use around Rhododendrons, azaleas, and other acid‑loving plants.

Alfalfa Meal 3‑1‑2 Medium availability. Good rose food. Supplies micronutrients and horrmonal growth promoter or regulator. Generates heat as it breaks down. Also used in composting as starter or accelerator.

Greensand 0‑2‑5   Medium availability. Primary nutrient is Potassium (K). Helps promote beneficial microbial activity. More absorbent than sand (silica), but of similar consistency. Good soil conditioner and for correcting potassium deficiencies.

Next, below are many formulations I have collected and used over the years.

5‑10‑15 Fertilizer
2.0 lbs. blood meal
4.5 lbs. bone meal
15.0 lbs. greensand

OR

5‑10‑15 Fertilizer
8.25 lbs. alfalfa meal
4.5 lbs. bone meal
15.0 lbs. greensand



10‑10‑10 Fertilizer
4.25 lbs. blood meal
4.5 lbs. bone meal
10 lbs. greensand

OR

10‑10‑10 Fertilizer
16.75 lbs. alfalfa meal
4.5 lbs. bone meal
10.0 lbs. greensand

2-3.5-2.5
1 part bone meal
3 parts alfalfa hay
2 parts greensand

2-4-2 Fertilizer
4 parts coffee grounds
1 part bone meal
1 part wood ashes
2-4-2 Fertilizer
1 part leather dust
1 part bone meal
3 parts granite dust

2-8-2 Fertilizer
3 parts greensand
2 parts seaweed
1 part dried blood
2 parts phosphate rock

2-13-2.5 Fertilizer
1 part cottonseed meal
2 parts phosphate rock
2 parts seaweed

3.5-5.5-3.5 Fertilizer
2 parts cottonseed meal
1 part colloidal phosphate
2 parts granite dust

2.5-6-5 Fertilizer
1 part dried blood
1 part phosphate rock
4 parts wood ashes

0-5-4 Fertilizer
1 part phosphate rock
3 parts greensand
2 parts wood ashes

3-6-3 Fertilizer
1 part leather dust
1 part phosphate rock
3 parts seaweed

3-7-5 Fertilizer
1 part dried blood
1 part phosphate rock
3 parts wood ashes

3-8-5 Fertilizer
1 part leather dust
1 part phosphate rock
1 part fish scrap 4 parts wood ashes

2.5-2.5-4 Fertilizer
3 parts granite dust
1 part dried blood
1 part bone meal
5 parts seaweed

4-5-4 Fertilizer
2 parts dried blood
1 part phosphate rock
4 parts wood ashes

6-8-3 Fertilizer
2 parts fish scrap
2 parts dried blood
1 part cottonseed meal
1 part wood ashes
1 part phosphate rock
1 part granite dust



Fertilizer for acid‑loving plants, 5‑10‑15:
4.25 lbs. cottonseed meal
4.5 lbs. bone meal
15 lbs. greensand

Rose Fertilizer, 15‑30‑30:
25.0 lbs. alfalfa meal
13.5 lbs. bone meal
30 lbs. greensand


This is my personal favorite I use for my fruit and vegetable gardens:
2 parts blood meal
1 part fish meal
2 parts bonemeal
4 parts rock phosphate
6 parts greensand.
1/2 part kelp meal

When I fill the reservoir I add to the water fish and seaweed emulsion. 1/2 ounce of each per gallon. The seaweed will supply all of the minor nutrients and it may also be used as a foliar fertization--1 ounce per gallon.


Now lets talk about how to root a pineapple. You take the crown when the fruit is ripe and twist it off. The will be a little bit of meat at the bottom. Carefully remove that. Set the crown in a place where it can dry out for a week -- to 10 days. Next, starting at the lowest leaf peel it off--downward. Continue to peel your way up until you see the roots.  Below is an image of what the roots look like. (This is a pup I've just set out for a friend here.) Once you see the roots then just stick it into your soil.



Generally the pineapples you purchase do not give pups / slips--commerical growers have bred that out of them. However, the sucker might. Here is a diagram to help you understand the parts.



Once your plant fruits you can leave it in the ground and see if it will grow a sucker.  I've got one pineapple fruiting and if you can wait I will send to you one of the pups.

I know that this seems like a lot of information, and it is, but I rather try to cover all bases.

Let me know if you want one of my pups. It will be a while before I could send it out. Maybe a few months.

If you have any questions please let me know.
Olds


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[westexasmoker]

Olds,

Those look incredible!  Ironically I read your post on your eartbox back in the spring and was inspired enough to build two (smaller mind you) out of some 18 gallon totes to see how they would perform.  Two tomato plants in one and six peppers in the other, they work great!  So a pineapple plant with southern exposure through the winter inside the house will work, ya think?

C

[Oldman]

So a pineapple plant with southern exposure through the winter inside the house will work, ya think?

Yepper I do...as I said 6 hours of direct sun light or better per day. Just remember a growth container is a closed system, so what you put in them stays in them -- like the salts from chemical fertilizers.<--- sorry but I just cannot express this strong enough.

Olds

Ironically I read your post on your eartbox back in the spring and was inspired enough to build two...

EDIT: I was just thinking Wow someone actually took some of my advice.

[Smoking Duck]

I actually took your advice as well Olds and have two smaller ones going myself.  I actually spend a good deal of time reading the books as well (what else are you gonna do when you're unemployed?  ;)). 

It does my heart good to hear you say that a pineapple can be kept inside during the winters.  I would very much like to grow one of my own if you should come by an extra pup.  I've enjoyed your pineapple threads but figured it was out of my range because of the winters here in Northern Indiana.

SD

[Oldman]

I actually took your advice as well Olds and have two smaller ones going myself.  I actually spend a good deal of time reading the books as well (what else are you gonna do when you're unemployed?  ;)). 

It does my heart good to hear you say that a pineapple can be kept inside during the winters.  I would very much like to grow one of my own if you should come by an extra pup.  I've enjoyed your pineapple threads but figured it was out of my range because of the winters here in Northern Indiana.

SD

Dang this great--two someones took my advise. I'm glad you like the books. I would strongly suggest using a childs wagon to move the pineapple from outside to inside.  The leaves of my Pineapples will slice you like a razor. They are not something you want to pick up and carry. Inside is fine as long as they get enough sunlight. If not your fruit will be small for sure.

[westexasmoker]

Ok Olds now what???

I was passing through the store the other day and in the floral department came accross this, so one had to come home with me and I remembered this thread!



C