Part 2
Step #5
For the switch I decided to go with is a SPST Illuminated Rocker Switch. The switch is the same switch that Bradley uses for the generator on the OBS. It is rated at 15 amps 250VAC, and there is a bulb which lights to indicate it is in the “ON” position. The easiest place to obtain this switch is from Yard & Pool. They have a well stocked parts inventory, and fast service. Communicating with Mike, I learned that a 5 amp AC switch would be plenty. So if you choose to use another switch just make sure it is at least 5 amps.
First you need to determine which terminal controls what. The switch I have, the terminals were marked 1, 2, & 3, with no instructions. With Mikes assistance, he determined with terminal control what, how to test it with an Ohm meter, and how to test the swith without a load prior to installation.
Here is a diagram of the wiring.
For the switch I was installing, the hole size is approximately 1 1/8” x 3/8”. To cut the hole for the switch I first made a paper template. I located and area in the front that would have the most space for ventilation. I tried using different color markers, but I could not see the lines well. I also tried scribing the lines, but I had difficulty seeing those lines also (note to self; get new glasses). So I opted to use paint; which had its draw backs because the line edges were fuzzy. Well anyway, I got the area marked off good enough to cut the hole
Mounting the switch vertically does not give you too much room for error in placement; so be careful in placing the template. When the hole is cut to the final size, you will need at least an 1/8” lip both top and bottom. It is difficult to measure the location from the front, due to the shape and design of the faceplate. It may be helpful to judge the distance from the back of the faceplate. From the back of the faceplate drill a 1/16” hole at the location the top right corner of the template will be, and used that as a guide when you position the template on the front.
The first photo is a picture looking at the hole from the inside. Look closely and you can see that there is space left at the top and bottom. To cut the hole I first drilled a 1/4” pilot hole and used a coping saw with a fine tooth blade. I made sure I stayed inside the lines, and then used a small file to file the hole to the correct size. You need to be careful not to make the hole too big, the switch should fit snug. The second photo shows the hole from the front. That white grid on the bottom of the faceplate is a template for drilling the ventilation holes.
Ventilation holes for switch:
The area covers 1 1/8 square inch, and the drill bit size is 1/8”
Step #6
I forgot to take pictures of the final wiring to the faceplate. Note: it is easier to hook up the switch if you run the wires through the hole you cut for the switch, and then connect the wires. Once the wires are connected install the switch with the wires hooked up.
The finished product:
First picture shows one element on, and the second shows two elements on. Though it is difficult to see, the third photo show the power indicator light, and the illuminated switch both lit up. This was after 3 and 5 minutes of operation.
Just a couple of other notes, as I mentioned in an earlier post be careful drilling the holes in the reflector. Don’t put the back of the smoker on until after you have installed the heating element. Leaving the back open make is easier to adjust the wire length. If you have trouble pushing the wire back in, you can easily pull it from the back. Measure twice and cut once.
