Another Mod...

[Mr Walleye]

Brisket Lover

I haven't heard from anybody with an OBS that has done this yet but I know Habs is going to do his shortly.

If I understand the OBS correctly the element is wired to a self resetting high temp cutoff switch that is mounted in the back of the tower. In addition the slider control is also wired into it.

My thoughts are I would rewire both elements directly to the plug on the back of the tower, I would however keep the self resetting switch wired into one of the elements. The reason is, it would provide a certain level of safety if the unit overheated by shutting down one of the elements and would certainly limit the remaining element's ability to continue to over heat the tower. Also by wiring it this way you would eliminate the slide control.

Of course you would have to control the unit with a PID or a BBQ Guru controller.

Mike

[Habanero Smoker]

I'm doing mine right after Easter. I don't want to take any chances until I smoke my ham. :)

I was thinking about having both being controlled by the slide controller; and possibly adding an on/off switch for the second element. At this time I am not sure which route I will go.

Also for those with the older version of the heating element that are glass, the newer elements are metal so you may want to purchase two elements. I have a glass one, so at this time I'm going to put the metal one in the rear, and the glass one in front. This way it will be easier to change out the glass one latter.

Mike;

I was just getting ready to ask you a question on this. Is it possible to just splice into the wires that are going to the existing element? That way if it gets too hot both elements will shut off. Though I have the DigiQ II I still like to have the ability to occasionally use the slider control.

[aha638]

I would be concerned that the slider can not handle the current of two heaters?

Al

[Mr Walleye]

Mike;

I was just getting ready to ask you a question on this. Is it possible to just splice into the wires that are going to the existing element? That way if it gets too hot both elements will shut off. Though I have the DigiQ II I still like to have the ability to occasionally use the slider control.

I think where the problem lies is the factory wiring is approximately 18 gauge which would be too light considering it will be supplying power for 1000 watts of elements. For the same reason I would bypass the temp slider and wire both elements like I said in my last comment. Even the high temp sensor wiring may not be heavy enough for both elements and is why I would just leave it wired into one element.

Mike

[Habanero Smoker]

Mike & Al;

Thanks for the information. I'm back to Plan A; Mike's design. I still may hook an off/on switch for the second element.

[Habanero Smoker]

This modification is now on the recipe site.

Additional Heating Element

I would like to thank Mike for sharing his idea, and putting extra work into this some it could be posted on the recipe site.

[car54]

Thank you Mike and Habs,

It is an excellent mod.

brad

[Habanero Smoker]

My high temperature wire arrived yesterday. It may take me a few days to figure out how I want to do this.

I have the OBS, and will be following Mike's directions. I'm also trying to add an on/off switch for the second element, and I have an extra power indicator from an old face plate that I want to use to indicate when the second element is in use. Once I get it apart it may take a few days, because I know I will need some more connectors and wire.

Mike;
If you don't mind I'll probably be pestering you again if I come up against a brick wall.

[Habanero Smoker]

Hi Mike or anyone who knows the answer;

The pestering has started already.

I'm looking to install a switch so that I can turn on/off the extra heating element. I currently have two switches. I have an illuminated rocker spst switch that has 3 terminals. This switch lights up when the power is connected. I would prefer putting in this switch instead of a 2 terminal spst. The two terminal spst it is not illuminated, and if I use the two terminal switch I will have to install a power indicator light; which would require a lot more wire and too small connectors. The three terminal switch is rated at 20 amps, and the two terminal switch is rated at 15 amps, so either switch will handle the power source.

On the illuminated switch the terminals are marked 1, 2 &3. I know that #1 is hot and goes to the electrical source, and #2 goes to the appliance (in this case the additional heating element). The problem is with #3. From what I could learn doing some internet searches this seems to be a ground wire terminal. If this is true, can I ground this to the cabinet frame, or do I have to run the wire to the ground at the plug in the back of the cabinet?

If it is not for the ground wire, does anyone know what it is for, and what wire must be hooked up to it?

3 Terminal SPST Illuminated ROCKER SWITCH

[Mr Walleye]

Habs

Here is a link to a SPST wiring diagram from Radio Shack for AC current.

http://support.radioshack.com/support_supplies/doc51/51418.pdf

Based on this I would think you need the neutral wire connected to #3.

I think what is confusing is the difference between AC and DC current. With DC current you would probably need the ground.

I'm definitely no expert on this. I'll let you know if I come up with anything else on this.

Mike

[Mr Walleye]

Habs

Here is another discussion on how to figure out which teminals are which using an ohm meter.

http://sci.tech-archive.net/Archive/sci.electronics.basics/2008-01/msg00129.html

Mike

[Habanero Smoker]

Mike;

Thanks for those links. I know it must have taken a while to find them. I was doing a lot of searching and came up with very little information. I'll have to read and study the information a little more. I also have to locate my ohm meter, but I believe if I can't locate it, I can talk the people at Radio Shack to test the switch for me. I need to purchase some stuff from them anyway.

Another thought, though I didn't buy the switch there, I may as well ask them how it hooks up.

[oldsmoker]

Mike just a question ? can i run the mod with just   the bradley gen ? i have a bs6. or do i have to use my pid .

[Mr Walleye]

Mike just a question ? can i run the mod with just   the bradley gen ? i have a bs6. or do i have to use my pid .

OldSmoker

No, you would have to use the PID because the digital generator's wiring and control panel may not be able to handle the doubled electrical load of the two heating elements.

Mike

[Roadking]

Mike just a question ? can i run the mod with just   the bradley gen ? i have a bs6. or do i have to use my pid .

OldSmoker

No, you would have to use the PID because the digital generator's wiring and control panel may not be able to handle the doubled electrical load of the two heating elements.

Mike

Oh yes you can. Hate to burst your bubble. But you can use the the Bradley to control any size heater. Just use the 110 volt output from the Bradley digital controler to operater a SSR with a 110 volt input. You can control any output amperage from the correct sized SSR you want and for under $50.00. If you want a SSR that will last a life time get an Allen-Bradley SSR. I believe they are the 700 series.


Here's a CRYDOM INC. SSR 40 amp. for $38.24     110v input/110 volt output 40 A.
http://www.galco.com/scripts/cgiip.exe/wa/wcat/itemdtl.r?listtype=Catalog&pnum=A1240-CRDM