DBS Problem

Started by Mr Walleye, December 31, 2006, 11:18:07 AM

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Mr Walleye

I'm right in the middle of a batch of jerky and here is what happened. I went out to dump the spent pucks because the smoke process was done and I discovered everything was shutdown. My first thought was the small wire connection was causing grief but I can't even get it to give me the beep and error message. There is absolutely no power. I checked the fuse and unfortunately broke it trying to get it out so I couldn't tell if it was bad. Any idea what size fuse that is? I replaced it with a 10 amp fuse and still nothing. I did connect the power directly to the box and the main element does work so hopefully the cool down period won't hurt the jerky. It does have cure in it so I think it will be ok.

Any ideas?

Mike

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owrstrich

dang walls i hope you get it figured out...

i aint gotts no info on a dbs...

one time a brisket thief stole my brisket after a 17 hour smoke... i had nothing... the most important thing is you still have your jerky...

you gotta eat...

owrstrich
i am johnny owrstrich... i disapprove of this post...

West Coast Kansan

10 buck says when you open up the unit you will find the wires to the fuse holder charred.  Probably even burned in half right at the fuse holder.  Call Bradley and they will send you a new one because they like to do that rather than fix the problem.

Run to Radio Shack and buy a new 10 amp fuse holder cause the one you got is melted gue. You didnt break the fuse, the bottom end is welded into melted plastic.  Interesting the fuse didn't blow isn't it?

While at Radio Shack you will also need two terminals to put back on the wires after you clip off the burned part.  You should also pick up an 8amp fuse not the 10 amp that normally comes origional.

I have no qualms about keeping the two old generators that Bradley has replaced for this same thing for me already. I think the strategy is they make so much money on the pucks they dont mind replacing the generators.

I have used both of the 'repaired' genertors for several hours and not even a blown fuse on them... again no clue on the cause but THIS problem if wide spread NEEDS FIXED and I am just a little more than pissed of about it...!!! >:(  >:(  >:(

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Mr Walleye

Thanks WCK

I did take the generator apart and yes the power wire on the fuse holder was burnt off. It didn't appear to have a connector on it unless it disintegrated. So I just soldered it back on and stuck a 10 amp fuss in it but it still doesn't work. Maybe a guy should run an 8 amp fuse. Unless it continually blows it might help. I wonder why this would happen without blowing the fuse? I will give Bradley a call on Tuesday and see what they have to say.

Mike

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West Coast Kansan

It won't work, The connector is toasted so bad you cant tell one was ever installed.  The fuse holder is also toasted inside. Ohm it and its open with the fuse installed.  Whole thing is a 7 dollar repair.  When you call Bradley the relevant question is WHY does this happen? And tell them to send you two new generators cause you know someone who has had this happen twice and you just want to save everyone the hastle (there was another one posted on the forum and I cant find it anymore soe that makes 4)! :(

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West Coast Kansan

Other possible no power, On my last one the GFCI tripped, forgot about your garage set up.

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Mr Walleye

That was the first thing I thought of but I checked and the power is good, right now I have the box plugged in directly to finish the jerky off.

Mike

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West Coast Kansan

Good deal, sorry that happened.  Let me know if you get any real answers figured out.  Thanks

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Mr Walleye

#8
I wonder if it is the result of using a poor quality conector? I'm not sure if that could cause this or not.

Mike

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Arcs_n_Sparks

That, or all the shaking coming from China..........

Arcs_n_Sparks

West Coast Kansan

#10
Need a current draw that builds enough heat to melt through the wiring to the point it drops off the connector with the terminal so hot it is not even recognizable as having been there...but not enough draw the 10 amp fuse wont blow.  I have gone to 8 amp fuse in the same style holder but have not lost a fuse yet and have not had a generator repeat the event.

10 amp is just under 2 times the 5.5 amps the unit would draw. 8 is just short of 1.5. 

I still wont be real comfortable until i know what causes it.

Sparky, the wire to the fuse holder melts off and breaks in half. Coming off the other side of the holder the insulation is charred about a half inch down.  The fuse holder plastic actually melts. Something has to be drawing excess current but under 10 amps right?  Wonder how much current / time would be required to generate that heat without blowing fuse? Only thing different than OBS is the display and whatever for monitoring box temp. Niether should draw much of anything. LEDs and a temp probe? Some lazy component cycles the heater bulb. What do ya think?

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Arcs_n_Sparks

If you have a poor ohmic connection, that can lead to self-heating. A five volt drop at 5 amps is 25 watts, which can generate a lot of heat if not dissipated properly (that equates to a one ohm connection). A fuse holder is not a good heat sink, and not hard to imagine enough heat to melt the connection. There may be enough conduction to char the other side. If the connection is more than one ohm, it just gets worse.

Only way to know is either measure the resistance or measure the voltage drops in operation.

Arcs_n_Sparks

Mr Walleye

 A & S

Do you think if a guy soldered the connection would it be any better than the crimp on style connectors?

Mike

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Arcs_n_Sparks

Yes. I usually solder my connections after crimping. A well done crimp will form a gas tight connection and does not need to be soldered. The operative phrase here is "well done." I've seen a lot of poorly done crimps, including my own. Solder is your friend...

Arcs_n_Sparks


West Coast Kansan

Opened the new generator, could not get on the terminal / nice plastic jacket covering them.  Voltage drop is not really visible on this little meter (analog no read out). But zero may be the right answer on a good unit. 

Solder makes sense, will do that over the crimp connectors on the old generators.

I feel better anyway. THANKS

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