Yet another big smoker....

[Mr Walleye]

300saum

I used an electrical enclosure like this one...
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/WIEGMANN-Enclosure-With-Screw-Cover-4KP28?cm_sp=IO-_-IDP-_-RR_VTV70300505&cm_vc=IDPRRZ1

Although the one I used was 12 x 12 and 4 inches deep. They come in many different sizes. I simply cut out the end where the face plate is mounted, leaving tabs in the corners large enough to screw on the aluminum face plate that I made.

Mike

[300saum]

Thanks Mike for the info.  Do you think there is a need for a cabinet heater when you are in the winter?  I would like to have a place to smoke out of the cold in the future, but for now I will have to do the smoking in the cold.

[Mr Walleye]

Thanks Mike for the info.  Do you think there is a need for a cabinet heater when you are in the winter?  I would like to have a place to smoke out of the cold in the future, but for now I will have to do the smoking in the cold.

Sam

That's a very good question. To my knowledge I don't think it's an issue, sort of....
I do know if it's real cold I have heard of people having to hold the Thermocouple in the finger tips to warm it up before the PID will cut the heater in. As I recall it has something to do with the PID thinking there is something wrong because the PV is below the lowest display reading of the PID.

Here is some info which originated from Auber Instruments....
Operating the controller when ambient temperature is below 32 °F (0 °C). The controller reading is only accurate for temperature ≥ 32 °F (0 °C ). In addition, if the ambient temperature is below 14 °F (-10 °C), the controller will not function because it can't read the temperature correctly. In that case, user can warm the sensor by holding it with their hands. Once the sensor is above 14 °F (-10 °C), it will turn on the heater. Once the inside of the smoker is heated to above 32 F, the controller will run by itself.

Mike

[300saum]

Thanks for the info Mike.  I will hold off on the heater, I will keep it in the garage and wheel it out when I'm going to use it.

[weedenb]

I was also wondering about my Auber operating do's and don'ts? My SYL-2352 died on me when starting some of my winter salmon projects.

Fish thread http://forum.bradleysmoker.com/index.php?topic=25948.0

Fortunately my SYL-1512 is taking over just fine. I know I've abused my controllers over the last few years by just leaving them outside all the time but no problem until now? It was a little cool (34F) but nothing extreme, I've worked them below zero and they do see as much as -20F over the winter.

My Bradley SG doesn't seem to care but I'm thinking I should probably remove the controllers and Bradley and put them in the shop when not in use. The Bradley is easy to unplug and pull, guess I'll have to order some thermocouple sockets also when I replace my 2352. Those and a plug/socket for the heating element will make it easy to pull the controller box.

Cheers!

[Mr Walleye]

Weedenb

Sorry to hear you lost a controller. On the positive side that's part of the reason to run the extra controller as a high limit safety, depending on how it fails.

On my setup it's in my heated garage so it's not exposed to the elements really. I do have another controller on a Treager that sits outside (Canada = Brrrrr) and to date I haven't had any problems at all.

Do you keep your smoker or controllers covered outside? I wonder if it's possible that it got some moisture in it.

Mike

[weedenb]

Thanks for the info Mike,

I do have a little shed roof over my control box and there is no direct water entry but but we're always at 100% humidity and +/- freezing temps so that could have been part of the problem. Good little PID's and I'll definitely get another one coming as I'm really spoiled with hitting the button and forgetting about things  :)

[Mr Grillmaster]

Hi Mr walleye
I am a newbie to the forum trying to figure this stuff out.  I see the smoker you built for your friend, and i build one similar to it, less the electronics. i do like the idea though. I'm going from 110v 2000w to 220v  38OOw, and trying to build the controll panel. I am confused on why you have two temp control in it?  The temp controller I'm using is a west 8100 it has 3 outputs in it. Another words it can control 3 things as i was told. I do understand the rest of your wiring diagram.  Can you give me any direction,  i would appreciate it. Thanks
Chris

[Mr Walleye]

Hi Mr walleye
I am a newbie to the forum trying to figure this stuff out.  I see the smoker you built for your friend, and i build one similar to it, less the electronics. i do like the idea though. I'm going from 110v 2000w to 220v  38OOw, and trying to build the controll panel. I am confused on why you have two temp control in it?  The temp controller I'm using is a west 8100 it has 3 outputs in it. Another words it can control 3 things as i was told. I do understand the rest of your wiring diagram.  Can you give me any direction,  i would appreciate it. Thanks
Chris

Hi Chris

The main reason for the secondary controller is to act as a high limit safety should something go wrong. Basically, the 1512 controller simply monitors the cabinet temperature and if the temp rises beyond your setting it will kill the power to the rest of the system. As an example, you can have a SSR fair in the closed position, a thermocouple failure, or the main PID fail which could cause the element to run full throttle. If something like this happened the secondary controller would sense the high temp and shut down the power to the elements. I have my smoker installed in a heated detached garage and safety was the major consideration for this.

I hope that made sense.  :D

Mike

[Mr Grillmaster]

Mike
That does make sense to me, I wouldn't of thought of that  that's is a great idea. So i believe the controller I'm going to use has 3 outputs and i can set a high limit on that as well as controlling temp. Like a said before if there is anything you would  share on your projects ( do's and don,ts ) that would be great. Thanks  for quick response
Chris

[Mr Walleye]

Mike
That does make sense to me, I wouldn't of thought of that  that's is a great idea. So i believe the controller I'm going to use has 3 outputs and i can set a high limit on that as well as controlling temp. Like a said before if there is anything you would  share on your projects ( do's and don,ts ) that would be great. Thanks  for quick response
Chris

Chris

I'm not familiar with the controller you are using. If you use the same controller for controlling the element and to act as a high limit safety, you could have a problem if the main controller failed with the element engaged. When I setup the 1512 as a high limit I worked with Suyi from Auber Instruments. He indicated that all the commercial equipment ran a separate equipment for a high limit safety to cover all the bases. I think the 1512, thermcoupler and contactor were worth about $60 so they are not that expensive.

Mike

[Mr Grillmaster]

Hi mike
i under stand i see your pointfail safe.  What size and part number did you use for the contactor. Chris

[Mr Walleye]

Hi mike
i under stand i see your pointfail safe.  What size and part number did you use for the contactor. Chris

Chris

I used the 40 amp contactor with the 120 volt coil but you could use the 40 amp one with the 240 volt coil as well.

Here's a link to the one I used...
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_31&products_id=130

Mike

[Mr Grillmaster]

Mike
Thanks i,I've ordered the stuff i need to build this electronic cabinet. I'm getting ready to put the thermocouples in the smoker, where would it be best to install the two thermocouples top, middle, or bottom? I got the smoker oven k type tc-k3mm thermocouples. Chris

[Mr Grillmaster]

Hi Mike
Things are starting to look good. I just ordered the eletrical encloser. Istill need to get those two fuse holders the ones on the face of the encloser do you have the fuse amp size? Also would you have the size of the one one the 220v holder? I'm trying to get some pictures up soon. Thanks Chris