PID or BBQ Guru Raptor and Competitor Pkg.

Started by nodak, December 31, 2005, 02:52:56 AM

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nodak

Phone guy would you pay <$90 for double switch one for cabinet and one for meat??  I talked to them today and they were pointing to a TSS but needs a 12V power supply, Not sure what I need to feed the 12V[?][?]  here's the link (http://www.dwyer-inst.com/htdocs/temperature/qstemperaturetoc.cfm) and click on what switch you think might work for specs.  He told me for 1000 watts need 8.3 amps, I think BS heater is 750? so should be alright.  They could also customize probes for our needs,  anyone else have thoughts or know about these switches in-depth.

"If you're not living on the edge, You're taking up way too much room, so get the he-- out of my way."

TomG

Hi Bubba, thanks for the reply to my ranting. Because I switched to a PID 2 months after I got my BS, I have to admit that I've had very little experience with the rheostat. The slide is always as far right as it will go and once the PID starts doing its fuzzy thing, temp. swings are minimal.  

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">That's like saying why do you need a rheostat on a light that's controlled by a switch? The reason is to control the intensity of the light, just like the rheostat on the BS controls the intensity of the heating element.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">

That is exactly my point.  I think the cooking element(quartz?) acts more like a light bulb than say a heating coil. When you switch off a rheostat controlled light bulb it stops emitting light regardless of how dim or bright it was before being turned off.

Tomorrow I'll try a simple experiment and if I'm wrong I owe you a 12 pack of bisquettes.[:)]

nodak

Tomg I'll be waiting for your post, I was going to order one in the morning, but will wait another day for your post. hope your experiment goes well. Also deciding between single and double switch. Any thoughts on my previous post just before your last one, but on previous page??? The 12 volt supply also confused me?

Here's a kicker: I seen a single switch with 2 probes. Top and bottom of smoker?  would this cycle too much? or doesn't work like I think it would???

With the activity on this subject now and previous you would think it would catch somebody's attention at bradley to buil a better mouse trap(smoker).

"If you're not living on the edge, You're taking up way too much room, so get the he-- out of my way."

bubbagump

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">When you switch off a rheostat controlled light bulb it stops emitting light regardless of how dim or bright it was before being turned off.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
TomG,

You are correct, the light does go away quickly but the <u>heat</u> generated does not. The brighter the bulb the greater the heat generated and the longer it will take to dissipate the heat once turned off.



Bubbagump

owrstrich

i ordered the ts13010... it should be here friday...

im gonna wire it up and smoke a full load of pig butt and cow brisket and whole boned possium...

ill either figure out or burn the place to the ground...

you gotta eat...

owrstrich
i am johnny owrstrich... i disapprove of this post...

bubbagump

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">ill either figure out or burn the place to the ground...

<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">

That's the spirit! [:D][:D]

Bubbagump

Oldman

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><font size="2">whole boned possium...
</font id="size2"><hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote"> Yuck rug rat on a stick... Momma~~! [;)]

Olds


Click On The Portal To Be Transported To Our Time Tested And Proven Recipes~~!!! 

IKnowWood

If the possum don't come out, save it for Crabbing.  Those crabs love that stuff.  Easiest way to crab it to tie a rope to the bone and toss it out the boat and pull them in and catch them with a net when they hit the surface.  The big ons hold on the best on that rat.

Let us know how the TS works.  I have the 2 TS idea rolling in my head giving me a headache.  GFCI wired to 2nd TS with meat probe to cut all the power and alarm on a regular Therm to say "Ding, dinner's done - FTC me please"
IKnowWood
Coming to you from the DelMarVa (US East Coast that is)

Look up Our Time Tested And Proven recipes

TomG

Sorry! It's too cold(53*) and too wet(showers) to go out and spark up the BS today.[V]  Not having anything better to do, I hooked up a spare BS rheostat in series with a 120v/10w light bulb and an ampmeter and tried to calibrate output over the slide's 2-inch travel. I measured and recorded mAmps every ΒΌ" from the left "off" position to the full right sided "on" position.  I'm not sure this is a valid way to calibrate but the numbers did checkout.



Granted my sample of one is small, but if other rheostats are comparable and assuming that this data can be extrapolated to the BS 4 Amp load, only the last one inch of slide throw controls the cooking element heat. And possibly even more interesting, in max current position, all the way to the right the rheostat is only delivering 93% of available current.

Yikes!  I think it's time to try to stop my wife's leaking kitchen faucet and hope that salmon season opens soon.[:)]

TomG

Hey Nodak;

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"> Any thoughts on my previous post just before your last one, but on previous page??? <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">

I don't know to which post you're referring. I'm losing sleep and getting more and more confused trying to keep up with Bubbagump.  Why don't you repost your questions and let's see if we can get them answered.  This thread may produce some interesting solutions to the temp control problem.[:o)]

Phone Guy

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by nodak</i>
<br />Phone guy would you pay &lt;$90 for double switch one for cabinet and one for meat??  I talked to them today and they were pointing to a TSS but needs a 12V power supply, Not sure what I need to feed the 12V[?][?] <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">

I'm not a genius but if the input was 12vdc how would this control your BS that is AC powered? There would have to be a relay after the TS and before the Bradley, I think.[?]

bubbagump

The 12 volt AC/DC TSS would require a separate power supply. The 12 volts would be strictly to power the TS. If you used the BS power it would have to transformed down to 12 volts, which is another component taking up more space. If it were me I would power the TSS with a 12 volt plug-in transformer.




Bubbagump

Phone Guy

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by bubbagump</i>
<br />The 12 volt AC/DC TSS would require a separate power supply. The 12 volts would be strictly to power the TS. If you used the BS power it would have to transformed down to 12 volts, which is another component taking up more space. If it were me I would power the TSS with a 12 volt plug-in transformer.




Bubbagump
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">

Ok, if I have a TSS and a 12 power supply connected to the input. where is the BS going to connect? If to the TSS, where is the AC voltage coming from? If the input on the TSS is 12vdc the output can't be AC. Unless there was a converter in there. Now the way I see it, which may be incorrect, is you would have to use the TSS simply to control a relay thats turning on and off the BS.
Some please correct me if I'm wrong.

nodak

The TSS would run off 12v, to activate the 110v switch, so you wire in 110v from wall to TSS than wire the smoker to the TSS switch. All the 12v is to run switch between the 110v.  Other wise you run jumper to power switch if it's 110 from wire that connects to wall.  

Back to thinking about 2 seperate swiches as I would have to add converter than just as economical to buy 2 seperate switches powered by 110V.  

Clear as mud now for sure?????

"If you're not living on the edge, You're taking up way too much room, so get the he-- out of my way."

bubbagump

The TSS operates on 12 volts AC or DC.

It seems odd they don't offer this model in 120 volt.





Bubbagump