bubbagumps custom PID

SMOKEHOUSE ROB · January 31, 2006, 12:26:48 AM

Here are some pictures of bubbagumps PID that he installed in his smoke genarotor, awesome job, and a cut and paste from an email he sent me, This will be my next project, THANK YOU BUBAGUMP (John) [;)]
C/P The one I installed is a Red Lion. I've used their products before and they
have always worked well. Their tech support is also very good. Listed below
are the parts I used.

PID - Red Lion #T1620000
SSR - Crydom #D1210
Thermocouple - Omega #TJ72-CASS-316U-3-SB-SMPW-M
Mini Panel Jack - Omega #RMJ-K-R

I like this PID because it is very small and simple to program. For this
application I didn't need or want a lot of bells and whistles. The space
inside the smoke generator is limited, to say the least, and there is only
one place I found that this PID, or any PID for that matter, will fit. The
face of the PID is just shy of
2" square and requires an approx. 1-3/4" square opening, which I used my
Dremmel tool for.

Attached are a few pictures of what it looks installed.

The switch to the right of the PID is the on/off switch for it and the
switch between the pushbutton and the power switch is the on/off switch I
installed to shut off the bisquette advance motor.

In the back I installed a mini panel jack for my thermocouple so I can
unplug it when I am done with it and store it inside the smoker. The small
silver switch under the mini jack I installed to allow me to bypass the PID
and use the smoker as it was originally wired with the rheostat.

I was going to post these on the smoker forum for others that may interested
but wasn't sure how. Feel free to post them it you like.

click on link to sign up for the 2006 free givaway. http://www.bradleysmoker.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=2809

dick621 · January 31, 2006, 02:30:46 AM

Bubba, I really like the way you put yours togeather. I had made a box for mine which is about 5"x5"x10". Used a TET7100 PID, crydom SSR, had a thermocouple made by WATLOW, type t. think I will reinstall everything in the smoke generator as you did. Much cleaner setup. How and where did you mount your SSR? Did you use a heat sink. where did you get your panel jack and plug.

Thanks Rob for posting this.
Dick in Emmett, Idaho

owrstrich · January 31, 2006, 02:34:11 AM

thanks rob...

gump... freaking awesome...

owrstrich

Oldman · January 31, 2006, 05:34:40 AM

VERY NICE indeed~~!

Olds

bubbagump · February 01, 2006, 02:43:23 AM

quote]Originally posted by dick621
 How and where did you mount your SSR? Did you use a heat sink. where did you get your panel jack and plug.
[/quote]

Sorry it took so long to reply, but for some reason I wasn't able to connect to the forum. I kept getting a time out.

Anyway, I mounted the SSR inside the generator directly behind the PID above the vents. I didn't use a heat sink. Instead I applied some heat sink compound on the back of the SSR and mounted it on the metal case of the smoke generator. The area on the outside of the generator where the SSR is mounted has only gotten slightly warm, even on warm days.

The panel jack and plug I purchased from Omega, the same place I got my thermocouple. Actually, I had the plug installed when they made my thermocouple, but since you already have your thermocouple you can just order the plug. http://www.omega.com/pptst/RMJ_RSJ.html

The switch in the back to bypass the PID is optional. I just installed it in case I need to run the BS with the rheostat, you never know. It's not necessary but it does provide a little flexibility. But I will admit I have gotten pretty spoiled since installing the PID and can't imagine operating the BS off the rheostat anymore.

I will admit it does involve more work, wiring, and expense to install the PID over the TS, but for me it was worth it. The PID is pinpoint accurate with no under or overshooting setpoint, even on windy and cold days. It is truly a set it and forget it smoker now. All I concern myself with now is changing the water and rotating the rack when needed.

Let me know if I can be of futher help.

Thanks for the kind words, guys. [:)]

Bubbagump

IKnowWood · February 01, 2006, 04:24:44 PM

How did you setup and install the puck advance switch.

nsxbill · February 01, 2006, 08:38:08 PM

You deserve the credit for a job well done. This really looks sweet. I have a PID I bought for an espresso machine that I never used. Might hook up something like this on my other BS just to watch the temps.

Thanks for posting up all the pics and instructions.

Bill

There is room on earth for all God's creatures....on my plate next to the mashed potatoes.

bubbagump · February 01, 2006, 10:59:07 PM

Thanks Bill [:)]

IKW - I just used a single pole switch and wired it in series with a wire lead going to the puck advance motor. With switch in the open position the motor will not operate when it gets its signal from the 20 min. timer or when you push the button.

I normally leave it off when warming up the BS. When I'm ready to smoke I just turn it back on, advance two pucks. and then turn it back off after the last puck is extinguished.

Bubbagump

nodak · February 05, 2006, 08:06:54 AM

Hey bubbagumps would you mind ball-parking us the cost of this nifty set-up or is this getting to personal. I just got back to town and need to decide to tackle this or buy a TS.

Thanks

"If you're not living on the edge, You're taking up way too much room, so get the he-- out of my way."

bubbagump · February 05, 2006, 11:33:32 AM

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by nodak
 Hey bubbagumps would you mind ball-parking us the cost of this nifty set-up or is this getting to personal. I just got back to town and need to decide to tackle this or buy a TS.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Hi Nodak,

I payed a little more than you would probably have to for a couple reason's. The PID I got a great deal on through a local supplier but still payed more than some of the ones listed on ebay. I was familar with the brand, and supplier, and wanted one that size so I bought it. The thermocouple I had custom made, which you would not have to do either.

I saw a PID listed on ebay that looked to be the same size as mine. I not familar with the brand, though. I think TomG might be using it, if so, maybe he can chime in here and give us the dimensions.

All in all, you should be able to install it for $75 - $100 depending on what components you use.

It is more expensive and little more work to install, but like I said earlier, for me it was worth it.

Hope this helps.

Bubbagump

TomG · February 06, 2006, 03:46:58 AM

Hi Guys,

I have 2 PIDs. The TCG-6131P from Coldfusion is 110mm long,48x48 front panel, and requires a 43x43mm cutout. The other is a model TA4 from Sanyou is 80mm long, 48x48 and 45x45mm. I got them both on eBay for between $38 and $32. As far as I can they are equally accurate. Besides being slightly smaller, and less expensive, the Sanyou has the added advantage of being user programable for both F and C* and almost any type of thermocouple or thermister.

Hope that helps.

TomG · February 06, 2006, 03:59:30 AM

BubbaG,
<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">PID - Red Lion #T1620000
SSR - Crydom #D1210
Thermocouple - Omega #TJ72-CASS-316U-3-SB-SMPW-M
Mini Panel Jack - Omega #RMJ-K-<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Is that a typo on the SSR? If not, where do you get the 3-32VDC control current?

bubbagump · February 06, 2006, 12:05:56 PM

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by TomG
 BubbaG,

QuoteIs that a typo on the SSR? If not, where do you get the 3-32VDC control current?
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

TG,

It is not a typo. The voltage output is from the PID. You have to be sure to order your PID with an SSR output rather than the 3 amp. relay output. The relay output is nothing more than a mechanical contact and with rapid switching will have a limited life.

With an SSR output there are no moving parts. The voltage output from the PID controls the current through the SSR. If you are setting up a PID control for the BS I would strongly advise buying a PID with SSR output. Same price.

Bubbagump

ChefBill · February 06, 2006, 04:13:11 PM

bubbagump,
Now all you got to do is put your ingenuus wiring diagram on the forum. I've got a Red Lion distributor right around the corner from me. [:D] I guess it's time to get tight with city sale desk. What was the custom thermocouple specs and where did you decide to mount it in the smoker to acquire the most accurate reading?

I've been toying with the Idea of mounting a very slow speed circulating fan within the BS to guarantee a pretty equal temp thru out the smoker, just haven't found a slow spd. fan motor with a shaft long enough to go thru the smoker wall. A "Counter Top Convection Oven" fan might work if I can find one like I want.[?] Any ideas on this subject?

ChefBill
If you can eat it, you can smoke it.

TomG · February 06, 2006, 04:22:12 PM

Hi BubbaG,

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">TG,

It is not a typo. The voltage output is from the PID. You have to be sure to order your PID with an SSR output rather than the 3 amp. relay output. The relay output is nothing more than a mechanical contact and with rapid switching will have a limited life.

With an SSR output there are no moving parts. The voltage output from the PID controls the current through the SSR. If you are setting up a PID control for the BS I would strongly advise buying a PID with SSR output. Same price.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

I understand and agree with all of the above, neither of my PIDs, to the best of my knowledge, will generate a vdc current to input to the SSR, they will only act as switches to activate the SSR. A dedicated current has to be provided to the PID's relay, either dc or ac to activate the SSR. My PIDs are presently wired to transfer 120 vac to the input of the SSR. If I had a SSR that required a vdc input I would have to provide that to the PID with a transfomer/converter. Your PID apparently is outputing a 3-30vdc current on it's own.