bubbagumps custom PID

nodak · February 09, 2006, 12:25:01 AM

Made a stop by Radioshack Bought rest supplies for $10.00 I already have a AC extension cord. I bought the 25A SSR so I could use the PID if I want to control a small elect heater in my camper/horse-trailer. Should I just use the metal plate only on the bottom of my project box and mount my SSR to it for a heat sink?

Is a 30 amp terminal strip sufficient?

Bubbagump and tomg I see you have a vent in the side of the project box, should I cut some slots in mine for air???

gary_CO could you please e-mail me the user Manuel they sent you if you get a chance? Did you order the one with the ramp feature?? I looked at it but it only had one input from what I could tell. I think we would need one with two programmable input (probes) one for smoker and one for meat(similar to raptor/competitor). hmmmm or maybe a ts switch into the meat before the PID.

Now if I could remember where I ordered my Maverick from that hasn't showed up, I accidentally trashed the confirmation e-mail. Guess I'll wait for credit card bill to come and make sure it's not on there before I order another one.

Can't wait for PID to arrive. I will post before I plug it in after I wire than if y'all don't here from me again you'll know I didn't wire it right[8][:D]

"If you're not living on the edge, You're taking up way too much room, so get the he-- out of my way."[?][?][?][?]

gary_CO · February 09, 2006, 03:55:53 AM

Hey nodak,

email message is on the way. I'd post a link to the manual, but who ever created it put a lot of effort into protecting the pdf file, so I guess I should not post it in public.

I decided against the ramping feature on my first one. Sure enough, it looks like all models available are one input and one output. Here's my drawing of the terminal connections:

I just plan on using my old wireless thermometer as a meat probe.

I noticed in my Paypal account that it shows the money being cleared on 2/13/06. I guess Auber will wait until that happens before they ship my product. I hate Paypal and don't use it very often.

I'm drawing schematics of the Bradley electrical components and wiring, and then I'll add in how I plan to wire mine. I do intend on mounting mine inside the smoke generator and will likely copy Bubbagump's setup. One I get my schematics done, it should be very easy to modify it to illustrate one in a project box. It's taking me awhile to draw though, I've gotten very rusty at drawing, and it'll probably take me a day or two...

Let me know if you don't get my email message, I'll send another one. My address is mentioned in the email. There was not any way to send an attachment in it. I can email directly once I get a email reply from you.

TomG · February 09, 2006, 04:00:06 AM

Nodak, re: slots, Hell man,I don't know, maybe I thought it would dissipate a little SSR generated heat, I didn't have anything better to do, or just thought it looked cool, but not necessarily in that order.[:)] I really went whacko on the other box. Don't even ask![:o)]

gary_CO · February 09, 2006, 04:22:40 AM

I kinda like TomG's idea of putting on a heatsink. Why not, just a few more $'s and a tad bit more work; don't see how it'd hurt anything.

I tried looking around online for heatsink to match the SSR I'm getting from Auber. I can't find any products on the net from the stated manufacturer, which is "Lide". Hmmm?????

Which leads to couple of questions I'll have:

1)The cycling rate comes with the default set to 2 seconds. Does the PID logic need such a quick rate. Seems like if I slowed that down to say, 30 or 40 seconds the SSR would stay much cooler. Plus you'd think that'd reduce wear on the heating element in the smoker tower. I just don't know if the PID would have worse performance that way. Does that make any sense?
2) Since I plan to mount mine in the generator box and I have the black, powdercoated Bradly, it seems like a good idea to scruff off the powder coating inside the box where I plan to mount the SSR. Seems like that'd give better heat disipation for the compound and SSR. Make any sense?

nodak · February 09, 2006, 04:40:45 AM

Thanks gary,

Found what I was afraid of. Looks like I need to find a longer thermocoupler so I can leave the PID box in the house/garage as ambient operating temp is 32F-122F.

Any body using a PID in cold temps??

Can we ignore the minimum ambient operating temp?

Well I'm on the hunt for a 10-15ft therm coupler lead. Any ideas for where to find the most economical and best type coupler?

Thinking about trying to get a plug of some-type for thermocoupler So I can have less cable in the summer by switching couplers.

"If you're not living on the edge, You're taking up way too much room, so get the he-- out of my way."

gary_CO · February 09, 2006, 05:14:22 AM

Check at the beginning of this thread. Bubbagump had his custom probe made at Omega.com and they also have the plug jacks. BubbaG' lists the product numbers he ordered.

Omega has an ordering tool called the "probe configurator" that lets you choose what you want, and then it creates the item number and tells you the price. I think it's a worthwile exercise to go thru. I guessed what I thought would be right, then compared to what bubbaG ordered. I learned a little about the thermocouplers this way.
The Omega Probe ordering tool can be reached here:
http://www.omega.com/config/probeconfig.html

P.S. If anyone wants a copy of the users manual for the Auber PID, send me an email and I'll send a link to where I have a copy online...

ChefBill · February 09, 2006, 12:41:59 PM

For all us tinkers in electrical gadgets + other stuff, here's a source of odds & ends at bargain prices. I've been buying stuff from them for years and never had anything but great service. They buy factory over runs, old new stock, and reclaimed stuff. They got some real buys.
http://www.mpja.com/

ChefBill
If you can eat it, you can smoke it.

gary_CO · February 09, 2006, 01:44:12 PM

Here's how I think I would wire the Auber PID into the generator box:

EDIT NOTE: Removed some irrelevant and incorrect info. Update the picture to represent comments as of 11 Feb 2006 -02:46:46 (Thanks Bubbagump!)

Updated on 2/24 to show inclusion of a DPDT toggle switch to allow switching between PID control and the original factory setup.

bugboat · February 09, 2006, 11:51:15 PM

I did use a heat sink with my 15a SSR although I dont think I needed to. It seemed to generate very little heat. This was in cold temps around 35 degrees though. I mounted my controll box on top of the smoker (think I'm going to move it though). The controll box does get a little warm with the heat coming out the vent, moisture too.
I'm going to mount my PID in the smoke generator like buggagump. The heat sink I stole out of an old computer prossesor.

common sense isnt common

bubbagump · February 10, 2006, 05:01:06 AM

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by gary_CO
 

Bubbagump, what do I have wrong? I'm especially worried about the wires to the AC side of the SSR. Mine looks much different than KosherSmokin's in his "ColdFusion" thread
( http://www.bradleysmoker.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=2552 ).
I don't know how to wire a relay...
Anything else?

EDIT NOTE: updated the drawing to show a) reversing the wires on the AC side of the SSR, which looked more correct and b) put the PID fuse inline and downline of the PID switch, which just seemed more logical.

I will go back and update this picture when I figure out the correct wiring.

Thanks.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Gary,

KosherSmokin's wiring was for a PID using a relay output not an SSR output like your drawing shows. So don't be confused by it. The wiring will be different. The way you show your SSR wired is correct.

As far as the fuse goes, you don't need a separate fuse for the PID. The fuse as you show it only protects the wiring and not the PID so there is no purpose for it. Just come off the load side of the existing fuse on the generator to feed the PID and use the same size wire as the smoke generator is wired with. Your fuse should be on the output side of the PID.

Also, the way you show the switch wired for the bisquette advance motor is incorrect. You just need to install the switch in series with a lead to the motor itself. Don't mess with any of the wiring going to the control module on the bottom of the smoke generator.

Bubbagump

nodak · February 11, 2006, 03:52:07 AM

Bubbagump, the grasshopper has a few more questions/seeks your input.

1. Should I just use the metal plate only on the bottom of my project box and mount my SSR to it for a heat sink?

2. Is a 30 amp terminal strip sufficient (opted for 25 amp SSR for other possible uses)?

3. Should I cut air vents in the side of the project box?

Thanks,
mike

"If you're not living on the edge, You're taking up way too much room, so get the he-- out of my way."

bubbagump · February 11, 2006, 01:35:16 PM

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by nodak
 
1. Should I just use the metal plate only on the bottom of my project box and mount my SSR to it for a heat sink?

2. Is a 30 amp terminal strip sufficient (opted for 25 amp SSR for other possible uses)?

3. Should I cut air vents in the side of the project box?
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Hi Nodak,

1. Yes, mounting the SSR to a metal plate will help heat transfer. You might want to spread a little heat sink compound (Radio Shack) on the back of the SSR before mounting it.

2. Yes

3. Yes, if the box is completely sealed off any ventilation you can provide would be helpful.

Bubbagump

ChefBill · February 11, 2006, 03:51:22 PM

bubbagump,
Just curious about something. What's the minimum working temp setting your PID has. I have some recipes that call for drying at 120ºF for a period of time. thanx

ChefBill
If you can eat it, you can smoke it.

nodak · February 11, 2006, 08:58:49 PM

Not sure on Bubbagumps but for the Auber you will be fine. It also depends on the type of thermocouple you use from what i can tell. All look -50 to 0C for lowest temp in user manual that Gary emailed me. I can email it to you if you would like. I have not yet received my PID hoping for Monday, not sure if Gary has yet???

"If you're not living on the edge, You're taking up way too much room, so get the he-- out of my way."

bubbagump · February 11, 2006, 09:02:58 PM

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by ChefBill
 bubbagump,
Just curious about something. What's the minimum working temp setting your PID has. I have some recipes that call for drying at 120ºF for a period of time. thanx
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
The PID setpoint adjustment is from -999 to 9999. So I can set it anywhere in between. I do have an adjustable setting that will limit the min. and max setpoint. I currently have a min. setpoint of 100 and a max. of 250.

Bubbagump